FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) on Water Treatment

More FAQs available on specific topics on other web pages Nutrients Removed From Water? Q. Nutrients are important for human survival. If I use a reverse osmosis system or a water distiller, almost all nutrients from the water will be taken out. Isn't this bad for my health? A. We need to understand that our requirements for nutrients come mostly from the food and other drinks we consume, not from water. We consume only about 2 gal (8L) of water per day, and the nutrients, if any, contained in the water are only minimal in quantity. On the other hand, very small amounts of harmful substances in the water can adversely affect our health because these substances may be retained permanently within our systems and produce cumulative effects on our health. Given the choice of having both nutritious and harmful substances in the water or having none at all, the sensible choice is the latter. Parasitic Cysts Q. If I want to be sure that parasitic cysts be removed from the water, what kind of filter should I use? A. You must use filter systems that filter down to 1 micron absolute, as parasitic cysts range from 4 to 12 microns in diameter. A great percentage of cheaper filters available on the market (for example, filters made of granulated active carbon or 10 to 30 micron rated cartridges) are totally ineffective against these parasitic cysts quite commonly found in water from surface sources. You may also consider using water distillers but generally the water production rate is much slower. Boiling Water Before Drinking Q. If I boil water before I drink, can I then do away with water filters or distillers? A. Boiling water (minimum two minutes rolling boil) will kill bacteria and other microorganisms such as giardia and cryptosporidium. However, most other impurities in the water (sediments, heavy metals, non-volatile chemicals etc) will get more and more concentrated as less and less water is left. If these impurities do not get filtered away, you will be ingesting them. Whether one feels comfortable ingesting these impurities without filtering them by water filters is a personal and subjective decision. However, if harmful content in your water supply is low, boiling water is a good way of making water safe to drink. Rating of Water Filters Q. If a water filter is rated to remove cryptosporidium, can it also remove giardia and E.coli as well? A. If a water filter can effectively remove cryptosporidium, it can also remove giardia, as giardia is larger than cryptosporidium in size. However, E.coli is much smaller, and can only be effectively removed by distillation, reverse osmosis, or reverse osmosis with UV as a double safeguard. How to Select Water Filters Q. There are so many types of drinking water filters, can you give me some purchasing advice? A. There are 3 major categories of drinking water filters: Water Distillers, Reverse Osmosis Units, and Regular Filters. Below is a comparison of these categories: Water distillers: Excellent product water purity, very slow water production, uses electricity, kills cysts (giardia & cryptosporidium) and bacteria (including E.coli). Click on this link to return to our Water Distillers page Reverse Osmosis Units: Very high product water purity (comparable to distilled water when cartridges are new and serviced regularly), slow slow water production but has storage tank for filtered water, no electricity used (except for countertop model with very low electricity consumption), blocks and drains cysts (giardia & cryptosporidium) and bacteria (including E.coli) Regular Water Filters: Moderate product water purity, quick water production, no electricity used, non-removal of cysts (giardia & cryptosporidium) except for filters rated at 1 micron or lower, bacteria (including E.coli) are not removed. All Reverse osmosis and Regular water filters must be used for feedwater which is microbiologically safe, that is, the supply water must be adequately disinfected by chlorination or ozonation, usually by the municipal water authorities. If there is any known water problems in your area, including microbiological contamination, please consult us by email first. Special features may need to be incorporated into your water filter unit, such as an ultra-violet (UV) sterilizer or an ozonating filter unit. Furthermore, the CBC also has a very good web page on Home Water Filters. Please note that the only point we disagree with is for users to shop for NSF certified systems. Paradoxically, this is very risky, as explained in our other Q & A: "Are NSF certified filters superior to non-NSF certified filters?". Chloramine versus Chlorine Removal Q. My water supply is disinfected with chloramine not chlorine, will this affect my choice of water filters? A. Activated Carbon (AC) is proven to reduce chloramine presence from 1 to 2 ppm to less than 0.1 ppm (a USP WFI requirement). The mode is similar to free aqueous chlorine destruction, however, with chloramines one encounters "by-products" of ammonia, chloride and nitrogen gas. Remember that AC does not adsorb C12 or NH2Cl like organics. Activated carbon is a viable method to reduce chloramines ...and... Activated carbon followed by RO (or IX and RO, depending on purity required) appears to be the best non-chemical-intensive method to treat chloramines. Activated Carbon Q. What exactly does Activated Carbon remove from contaminated water? A. The answer is simple yet complicated: It is better for us to refer you to this North Dakota State University paper entitled Treatment Systems for Household Water Supplies: Activated Carbon Filtration. The University of Minnesota Extension Service also publishes another easy-to-read article on Activated Carbon. Q. Why does the filtered water appear greyish or blackish when first put into use? A. All filter cartridges that contain activated carbon will release carbon fines left in the manufacturing process when first used. The carbon fines are perfectly safe and will disappear after the initial few days of use. You can simply wait a short time before filling your glass or container if carbon fines are present. Faucet-Mount Filters Q. Why do you not sell faucet-mount water filters? A. There are two main types of faucet-mount filters: granulated active carbon (GAC) and carbon block (CB)filters. In both cases, the amount of carbon contained is very little compared to conventional filters, and the frequency of cartridge changes is high. This makes them quite expensive purchases. For GAC, its size is like sand, so water can pass through very easily and quickly - there is a tendency for impurities in the water not to be adequately adsorbed, and that most solid particles, except for the coarsest particles, can easily pass through, rendering the filter quite ineffective. Moreover, some cartridges contain water softening beads, which is a complete waste if used in areas where the water supply is already soft. For CB, they are useless rated at 0.5 or 1.0 micron and are very effective against parasitic cysts (giardia and cryptosporidium). The filters are also very effective in blocking out fine sediments, but because of this and their small size, they can plug up very easily, making filter changes even more costly if used in high sediment areas. We therefore do not carry these filter types because other types of water filters are more effective yet less costly to run. Silver-Impregnated Carbon Q. Why do you Not Recommend filters with silver-impregnated carbon? A. The effects of slver-impregnated carbon in preventing bacterial growth within the filter cartridges is only short-lived, if any: Click Here for details (read section on “The Bacteria Issue”) However, silver belongs to the same class of chemicals as mercury and lead. Some scientists are concerned that possible imperfections in quality-control of filter cartridges might result in too much silver ions leaching into the product water and be ingested by human consumers. This is a known risk, however small it is - Please see This U.S. EPA Link. Silver may be ingested and absorbed by the body with questionable effects: http://content.karger.com/ProdukteDB/produkte.asp?doi=10.1159/000093928 See also the following: North Dakota State University link (see Bacteria Issues). Another publication holds a slightly different view: "OLIGODYNAMIC, SILVER IMPREGNATED OR BACTERIOSTATIC CARBON A manufacturer who adds (impregnates) silver compounds to the surface of the carbon granules is trying to inhibit bacteria growth within the carbon bed. However, EPA sponsored testing of such filters have shown that they are "neither effective nor dependable in meeting these claims" [EPA Report #EPA/600D-86/232 October l986]. Some manufacturers have also made misleading claims that their silver impregnated filters will eliminate bacterial contamination from virtually any water source. The low concentration of silver found in these filters is not capable of destroying influent waterborne bacteria or providing protection from contaminated water under normal flow conditions. Pyrogens can induce fever (from dead bacteria). Bacteria destroyed in silver impregnated carbon can still end up in your drinking water. Because silver is also toxic to humans, such filters are regulated by the EPA under the Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act and must be registered and issued a registration number. This registration doesn't imply any EPA approval of the unit or of its effectiveness. It does certify that the carbon will not release more than 50 parts per billion of silver - the maximum safe level." Rating of Water Filters Q. Do all filters need to have a micron rating? A. No, but all water filtration systems that are designed to remove sediments and/or parasitic cysts (such as giardia and cryptosporidium) should have a micron rating. Generally speaking, the smaller the micron rating the better. A filter rated at 5 microns is pretty good, a 1- micron "abosolute" rated filter can effectively remove parasitic cysts such as giardia and cryptosporidium, and reverse osmosis systems are rated at approximately 0.0005 micron can remove a high percentage of bacteria including E.coli. NSF Certification Is Not Everything Q. Are NSF certified filters superior to non-NSF certified filters? A. Not necessarily. Manufacturers need to pay for NSF certification and annual re-certification. Some manufacturers choose not to go through this expensive and recurrent process for at least some of their products. This is why the U.S. Centers for Disease Control & Prevention recommended that Reverse Osmosis (RO) systems, whether or not NSF-certified, can be used to remove cryptosporidium: see Preventing Cryptosporidiosis: A Guide to Water Filters and Bottled Water. For example, for particulate (sediment) reduction, a non-certified 1 micron rated filter is as good as an NSF-certified 1 micron filter (Class 2) and definitely better than an NSF-certified 30 micron filter (Class 5), because "Under Std 42, particulate reduction is subdivided into six classes. Filters certified for reduction of particulate matter will be able to reduce at least 85% of the particles of the size listed. An NSF-certified filter cartridge belonging to, for example, Class 5 cannot be better than a non-NSF-certified filter rated at Class 1 (see the NSF web site) Some filters are marketed with the NSF logo but without a clear indication of the micron rating at which the product is rated. This borders on deceptive marketing. There are also cases of filters claiming NSF-compliance but turning out to be false. Municipal Treated Water versus Lake/Well Water Q. Are all filter systems equally effective and safe for filtering municipal-supplied water and well/lake water? A. An emphatic NO! - Most water filter systems are designed to filter only water that has been disinfected by pre-treatment with chlorine (or other disinfecting procedure such as ozonation). Municipally supplied water is almost always pre-treated with chlorine. Lake and well water may or may not be pre-treated by disinfection, depending on whether there is any microbiologically concern in the water, whether any disinfection process is installed, and whether the local authorities require it. Unless the source water is disinfected with a suitable process, or unless the filter has a UV sterilizer or a chlorination or ozonation component, it MUST be assumed that the water filter can only be used for feed water which is microbiologically safe, and NOT for any type of source water. E.coli Q. Are reverse osmosis (RO) systems adequate in dealing with bacteria such as E.coli? A. No, because RO membranes cannot eliminate 100% of contaminants. Also, they will age and degrade gradually. To ensure more effective elimination of bacteria such as E.coli, a UV sterilizer is recommended as a second line of defence. Additional precautions or pre-disinfection are usually needed for lake or well water. Reverse Osmosis Q. When will you recommend the use of reverse osmosis (RO) systems? A. We recommend ROs when people wish to filter out as much impurities as possible from their drinking water supply. RO membranes are rated at 0.0005 micron and can take out practically all impurities in dssolved or ionic form, whereas conventional filters rated at from 0.5 micron to 20 microns can take out some solid sediments and dissolved substances, and are thus much less effective. If you understand how RO works, you'll know carbon filters can NEVER be as good as ROs. Please refer to the information under various headings on our Reverse Osmosis page. For example, conventional filters cannot take out flourides (except with the use of specialty flouride removal cartridges), whereas ROs can. On the issue of water wastage, we view it from two angles: In areas with plentiful water supply such as Vancouver (where we are located) - the water "wasted" by an RO unit in continous use for a month is less than the water used for sprinkling the lawn for a few hours. Water is charged at a flat rate here and in many other jurisdictions. On the other hand, in regions with severe water restrictions, RO is not recommended unless the customer has some means to recover the reject water. Between these two extremes, there is a continuum of specific situations; And the customer has to decide personally what their preference is. Reverse Osmosis Q. How can I extend the life of the Reverse Osmosis membrane (the most expensive replaceable cartridge in an RO system)? A. A reverse osmosis membrane's normal life is 3 years or more. To extend its life, you should ensure that the sediment cartridge is not clogged up with sediments. Examine the sediment pre-filter every 6 months and change it if there's any sign of clogging resulting in slower water flow through the RO unit. Stronger flow of water through the RO unit can increase the % of impurities rejection by the membrane, and also increase the effectiveness of the current flushing impurities down the drain. To more accurately determine the % rejection rate of impurities of a membrane, you need to use a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter to compare the TDS content of filtered water versus unfiltered feed water. A pen-type TDS meter is the simplest and inexpensive gadget for this purpose. Please note that when measuring the real TDS value of the product water from an RO membrane, you should first ensure that the pre-filters are not clogged up, as clogged pre-filters will reduce the water pressure and lower the TDS-rejection efficiency of RO membranes, thereby giving false results when measurements are taken by a TDS meter. Reverse Osmosis Q. How do we Know When an RO Membrane Needs to be Changed? A. RO membranes typically last 3 years or longer. The surest way to tell whether a membrane needs replacement is to measure the TDS (total dissolved solids) content of the product water and compare the reading with that of the feed water. The comparison should be done using a TDS tester, and only AFTER you have replaced any or all of the pre-filters ahead of the RO membrane. The RO membrane should be replaced if the TDS level in the product water rises to over about 30% of the feed water. For instance, the feed water TDS is 1,000 ppm and the product water (when the RO membrane is new) is 50 ppm. If the TDS of the product water rises to about 300 ppm, you should change one or more of the pre-filters, and the ppm level will be lowered. If, after changing the pre-filters, the TDS level still remains over 300 ppm, the RO membrane should be changed. Filter Cartridges Q. How frequent should filter cartridges be changed? A. Filter cartridges are to be replaced periodically but their change frequency does not follow any hard-and-fast rules. Basically, filter change frequencies depend on factors such as volume of water passing through the filter, level of sediments, level of chlorine, level of other impurities in the water, temperature of water, and the amount of pathogens present in the water etc. The following are general guidelines: - Sediment cartridges - 6 to 12 months, (then spray down and re-usable for a few times if they are pleated cartridges) - Carbon cartridges - 6 to 12 months depending on level of chlorine and other impurities in the water, and also the rated capacity of the cartridges - Multi-purpose cartridges - usually 12 to 36 months, depending on level of chlorine and other impurities in the water, and also the rated capacity of the cartridges. - Reverse osmosis membranes - 3 to 6 years (or sometimes more) - Post-filter cartridges of reverse osmosis systems - One to two years, or when taste or odour is detected in the product water. Filter Cartridges Q. How can I know whether a filter cartridge has been saturated and not able to adsorb chlorine and other impurities? You have no way to tell except by: (a) personally detecting the taste of chlorine or other tastes in the water you drink whereas no such taste is detected previously, or (b) by the use of a chlorine test kit. Filter Cartridges Q. What precautions should I take when changing filter cartridges? A. Two important precautions: (1) Your hands must be very clean - wear a pair of new plastic/surgical gloves if you wish; (2) The filter cartridges should not come into direct contact with anything unclean (for example, placed on a table without the wrapping) to avoid contamination. Reverse Osmosis: Model V5 versus V5-Gold Seal Q. What are the differences between the V5-GS (Gold Seal) and the V5 Standard (Reverse Osmosis Systems)? A. In terms of the product water quality, they are essentially the same without any noticeable difference. In terms of "hardware", the V5-GS has the following advantages: - WQA (Water Quality Association) approved - Gold Seal - A higher performance RO membrane in terms of stability of TDS (total dissolved solids) rejection rate - An air-gap faucet with higher flow 3/8" tubing (the V5 has a standard faucet with 1/4" tubing"). Some local plumbing codes require air-gap faucets. Troubleshooting Q. The water coming out from my new water filter is grey (or black) in colour. Is the filter faulty? A. The grey or black colour is the result of carbon fines (created in the manufacturing process of carbon cartridges) flushed out of the filter system by the water. Almost all new filter systems with carbon cartridges show this phenomenon to a greater or lesser extent when they are new. This is no cause for concern as the carbon is clean. In the first few days of use, simply let the water run from the dispenser faucet for about 30 seconds before catching the water fror use. The colour will eventually disappear. Countertop Filters Q. Will your countertop filters fit any faucet? A. All our countertop filters have diverter valves which can be fitted to about 80% of all faucets. If that doesn't work, the product comes with a pair of international faucet adaptors which will work on 15% of the remaining 20% of faucets with other types of thread. If your faucet does not belong to the remaining 5% of faucets with non-standard thread, or if it is not a "luxury" or "pull-out" type of faucet, our countertop filters will have no problem connecting to it. Going on Vacations Q. If I go on vacation, do I need to do anything with my water filter? A. For countertop filters, you should disconnect you filter from the faucet and place it in a clean plastic box, then store the filter in the non-freezing compartment of your refrigerator. Low temperature will minimize the possibility of any bacterial growth within the filter. Upon your return from vacation, let the water filter run for at least 10 minutes before use. (unfinished) Bacteria Removal Q. If I want to remove bacteria in the water completely, which filter systems should I use? A. Bacteria and viruses (including the potentially deadly E.coli) are even smaller than parasitic cysts. Only reverse osmosis systems or water distillers can almost completely remove them, and, in the case of reverse osmosis systems, there is still a chance of bacterial breakthrough, especially when the R.O. membrane ages or otherwise degrades. Adding a UV sterilizer as the final stage of filtration is a very good safeguard. A UV sterilizer can effectively sterilize the product water from a reverse osmosis system - see this UV Germicidal Chart UV Q. Why do you advise that a UV sterilizer be positioned as the final stage in a filtration system? A. UV rays can kill bacteria. However, UV works best in pure water. If water is not adequately filtered, suspended matter in the water will shield some harmful pathogens from the lethal UV rays. Therefore it is best to position a UV sterilizer as the final stage in a filter system. The filter system should be a reverse osmosis (R.O.) system as an R.O. system can filter down to 0.001 micron or smaller, virtually eliminating all suspended particles. Q. What kind of filters is most effective against the possibility of poisoning of the water supply? Incidents of serious poisoning of the water supply are very rare. Generally speaking, water distillers are the most effective, as water is boiled and then steam is condensed into a storage bottle. Gaseous impurities are vented and solid residues are left behind in the boiling chamber. However, the process is relatively slow compared with other modes of filtration. The second best mode of filtration is reverse osmosis. A Thin Film Composite (TFC) reverse osmosis membrane typically rejects from 96% to 99% of contaminants. For the range of substances which can be rejected by reverse osmosis, please see Document 1 or Document 2 Lake and Well Water Q. I am on untreated lake (or well, or river) water, what kind of system should I use? A. Most filter systems stipulate that they must be used for water that is microbiologically safe. If your water supply is not pre-treated (usually chlorinated or ozonated) to kill off bacteria including E.coli, you are advised to pre-treat (disinfect) your water or install a UV sterilizer as the final stage of filtration, or both. Besides, for feed water with high turbidity or other suspended matter, it might be advisable to install a pre-filter incorporating a 1-micron absolute cartridge (pleated for high capacity retention of particulate matter). Installation of Water Filters Q. Do I need to buy parts necessary for installation of your filtration systems? A. You do not need to buy any extra parts in order to install any of our complete filtration systems. All our systems come complete with all the essential parts that are necessary for successful installation. In the remote possibility that any part is missing in the package, we will send the part to you by expedited mail. Installation of Water Filters Q. Is it difficult to install your filter systems? A. Some systems such as water distillers do not require installation. Some, such as countertop filters and shower filters, require minimal installation by screwing a connector onto the kitchen faucet or shower pipe. Some, such as undersink systems, require more installation but the help of a friend who is good at handyman jobs will suffice. Alternatively, you may choose to ask a plumber to install the system. Only for whole house system installations do we strongly recommend that the service of a qualified plumber be used. All our products come with installation manuals, if applicable. Prices of Water Filters Q. Why are some water filters sold elsewhere at much lower prices than yours? A. Some companies do not specify clearly the micron rating or the types of filter media used in their filters, making it difficult for consumers to know what they are buying. These companies may either sell inferior filters for less, or some companies can even make more profit by selling inferior filters at higher prices which they may fetch from unwary customers. However, we find that most companies selling unrated filters are simply unknowledgeable in what they are selling. Quality of Water Filters Q. Then, should we only buy name brand water filters? A. Not necessarily - the important thing is to buy only from reputable dealers who know what they are selling. A name brand doesn't automatically mean that the water filter marketed is of superior quality. For instance, a name brand pitcher-type filter is rated at NSF Class 5. What exactly Class 5 means is not explained on the packaging, nor can a big box dealer or a department store sales associate advice you on the quality of the water filters they are selling. We leave you to find out what Class 5 means on our Home Page, or from the National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) web site. Reverse Osmosis: Multiple Dispensing Points In a House? Q. I am considering installing a high-capacity RO system for the whole house (only 2 persons), and delivering the product water to a few points of use. Is this feasible, especially whether there is a problem with the product water pressure? A. It's better for you to install smaller RO units near the points of use, so that pressure problems, as you correctly expected, can be minimized. Moreover, the cost is usually less as well, as you're only a small household. Our V5 units are the most popular choice. Corrosion (of metal piping etc) will also not be a big concern since the RO units are installed very close the the actual points of use. Besides, one RO system may be able to serve two or more points of use (most commonly the kitchen sink plus the fridge), with or without a delivery pump, depending on the water pressure. Please note that if two or more points of use are to be served by one RO unit, you need to purchase one with 3/8" outer diameter tubing (the V5-GS model) instead of units with conventional 1/4" O.D. tubing. You may or may not need a booster pump for the feed water to the RO units, depending on your effective water pressure, but if it's needed, you can order one or two. Disinfection is best installed AFTER the RO units (using smaller, 6W UV sterilizers) that sterilize the water right before it gets dispensed. As for TDS monitoring, built-in gadgets are relatively expensive. The indicators may be on a timer basis (e.g. 6 months) or volumetric basis (e.g. 900 gallons) or TDS-sensing (e.g. % TDS removed compared to feed water) or a combination of the foregoing. Take built-in TDS-sensing faucets for example: If the sensor mechanism goes wrong, you'll have to change the whole faucet. So our advice is to simply get a pocket type TDS tester. You don't need to test the water daily - once a month or twice a month checking is all that you need. Besides, TDS sensors are unable to check for non-conducting impurities such as chlorine in the water, so filter change frequencies are determined by not only by measurable TDS increase but also informed estimates of how long the carbon cartridge(s) in the system may last. You only need regular RO tanks, as an overly large tank with little water exchange will make for stale water, which has higher risks of bacterial proliferation. Unconventional Water Filtration Processes Q. Some water filters claim that they purify water by magnetic or infrared mechanisms. Are these claims believable? A. We are not in a position to judge the individual merits of various types of water filters. However, the following web site by Stephen K. Lower, a professor of chemistry, Simon Fraser University, BC Canada may be of interest to you: Gallery of water-related pseudoscience: Junk science in the marketplace. You may also be interested in the link to: Water-Related Pseudoscience: Fantasy & Quackery. There is also a summary of the article "Demonstration and evaluation of magnetic descalers". This discusses results with two magnetic and one electronic anti-scaling device. The conclusion was that none of the three devices reduced fouling of a heat exchanger in controlled tests. This study was done for the US Army. Water Distillers Q. Should boilers of water distillers be cleaned with a distiller cleaning agent? A. This principally depends on whether your source water will create deposits on the surface of the distiller boiler. If there are scale and/or sediment deposits, rinse the boiler once every few cycles. Every few weeks the boiler may need to be cleaned with either distilled white vinegar or with a granular (white crystalline) descalant such as sulfamic and citric acid. Choose the method which is most convenient and/or cost-effective for you (Which method is best depends on your source water quality and whether your boiler design scales easily). Please note that the boiler need not be cleaned to spic and span condition (avoid hard scraping with tools). It need only be cleaned as long as scale/sediments are not allowed to accumulate and thicken such that heat transfer from the heating element to boil the water is hampered significantly. To clean scale deposits from stainless steel distiller boiling chambers (especially necessary in hard water areas), use 2oz per 4 litres/1 gal of heated water and soak. Let the distiller boiling chamber sit overnight with the cleaning solution. Place it out of the living area as the reaction of the lime scale and the acidic cleaning solution may produce vapors which may not be healthy to breathe. EcoPure's Free Services Q. You provide free consultation service on the internet, it's a surprise to find that you're not charging me for the service! Being a professional water treatment equipment company, we want you to know that we are knowledgeable in our area of expertise. This is one small way we can do to educate the public in an area where consumer knowledge is relatively weak. If you appreciate our service, invite more of your friends to visit our eShop. EverPure Filter Systems Q. Your Everpure-compatible cartridges look very different from the original Everpure cartridges, and their diameter is different from the original cartridges as well. Will they really fit the original Everpure filter head? Yes, they do fit if they belong to the H or S series (Email us if otherwise). To ease your worry, follow these procedures: (1) Turn off the water supply to your Everpure filter; (2) Disconnect the Everpure cartridge; (3) Compare the cartridge's top part with the top part of our cartridge - visually compare their size and look - they should look quite similar; If they look entirely different, STOP HERE and let us know by email. (4) If they look the same or very similar, gently screw our cartridge into the original head of the Everpure cartridge - see if they fit, like trying on caps of different sizes for a specific bottle. AT NO TIME should force be used - if they match, the screwing on process should be very smooth, like when you screw on the original Everpure cartridge. (5) If you are UNSURE, DO NOT turn on the water supply - Take off the new cartridge and screw the old cartridge back on. THEN EMAIL US. Go to (6) if you are now quite sure that they match. (6) Turn on the water supply slowly - and you should find your new cartridge working for you. Buying from EcoPure Q. I live in the Greater Vancouver (or the Greater Toronto) area. Can I come and pick up the product instead of ordering on-line? A. You may arrange for picking up your order, but you still have to order on-line or over the telephone. Our internet prices are extremely low, and the delivery process is almost 100% automated and integrated with Canada Post's parcel delivery system. Canada Post's local parcel delivery charges are so inexpensive you'll be pleasantly surprised when you place your order on the internet. Picking Up Your Order in Ontario Q. I live in Ontario, can I place an order on the internet and pick it up from one of your stores in Ontario, so that I may save on shipping charges? A. No, because we still have to ship your order to our Ontario store. This will also result in additional handling expenses. Shipping Internationally Q. I am not in North America. Which countries have you shipped to in the past that is without hassles? We have successfully shipped to these countries in the past: Guam, Japan, Bangladesh, United Kingdom, Germany, Italy, and Hong Kong. Booster Pumps Q. I have an Aquatec booster pump which started to make loud ticking/clicking noises while running. It is still pumping fine except I am getting complaints from family about the ticking at night while trying to sleep. This pump was installed in 1999, it never seems to shut off and the pressure in the holding tank never gets excessive( 40-50 psi), can it be rebuilt or should I replace it, or should I be looking at a bigger pump? The clicking sound is probably a predecessor to failure. I suspect the motor brushes are about worn out if it has run continuously since 1999. Although these pumps are designed to run continuously, we recommend the use of a tank mounted pressure switch (PSW-240) that interrupts the flow of electricity to the pump when the holding tank pressure reaches 40 psi. That way, water is not pumped through the membrane and down the drain because the holding tank can't hold anymore water. Other water saving devices are available, such as our ESO, which is an electronic controlled solenoid that stops the flow of feed water when the tank is full, or an ASV, which is a hydraulic controlled valve that also shuts off the flow of feed water. If the motor brushes have reached their useful life, the pump components are probably not far behind. I recommend a new model 6800 pump, and PSW. (Answer provided by Aquatec)